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The Continental style of Shamian Street
By Sophy Jiang
In Guangzhou, there is a street that lies along the river with ferries shuttling passengers back and forth. Streets here are framed by old banyan trees with aerial roots, creating a somewhat mystical appearance. The boulevard displays marvelous ancient western style buildings, towering churches, and possesses numerous vivid copper sculptures in a dignified consulate. The streets are filled with stores selling Chinese paintings, western style paintings, and cloisonné. There is also chi-pao, Chinese-style costumes and dresses; tea houses, Starbucks, and Lan Kwai Fong. The Island integrates Chinese and Western motifs as it combines old and new in thousands of ways and styles. This fairyland is Shamian Street, a romantic escape within southern Guangzhou. It was once a settlement of only British and French citizens.
Shamian is now totally different from the past and has more than 50 historical and culture relic sites. Many buildings have the British Romantic architectural style of the 19th century with red brick and three stories with an oval attic. There is the former Hong Kong Bank, with four stories and pillars on the outside wall and was built in a classical western renewal style. Each one has a name card carved in the corner with a sentence both in Chinese and English.
History of the Island
Shamian Street is one of the earliest
foreign settlements, located on the bank of White Swan Pool, near the junction
of Pearl River. As one traces the history of Shamian Street,
it is not a lengthy story, but it is a troubled one. It came about as a result of the second
Opium War, which many consider the most wretched time in China’s history. During this time, the British and French
invaded China and when they needed a place they forced the government of
Qing Dynasty to give Shamian Street to them and created a settlement there. They separated Shamian Street from the
rest of the city by digging a man-made river. They did this by reclaiming the land from
the river and sea to make an island. On this island, they built government consulates,
foreign firms, hospitals, schools, bars, cinemas, and ball courts, and made
everything as they preferred to have it. In September, 1861, Lao Chongguang-
the governor of Guangdong and Guangxi, signed the Lease Agreement of Shamian
Island with the British consul Henry Burks. Britain took control of 44 acres of the
island and France took over 11 acres. From
then on, Shamian was under the control of foreign powers for more than 80
years.
Shamian Island had been relatively unknown for a number of years. One day this island grabbed the attention of Henry Fok, a businessman from Hong Kong, who had a deep love of his motherland. He decided to create the first five star hotel in the area, the White Swan Hotel, and make it into a 28-story luxurious hotel rising straight from the ground. Thanks to the accomplished designers, they put a traditional Lingnan Garden landscape and waterfall on the third floor of the hotel, with rocks and a pavilion around it. The waterfall is named “Hometown Water” which falls down and merges with the Pearl River at the front door of the hotel. It is said that on the day the hotel began the business, there were thousands of people which came to see it. The White Swan Hotel also serves as a symbolic example of a mark “made in China” since the hotel was designed, built, and is managed all by Chinese, under the leadership of Henry Fok. The hotel quickly became known both in China and abroad; it currently ranks as one of the world’s
There is a unique history to the
two churches on the island as well. Since there were two nations
in control in this tiny place at the same time two kinds of churches were
built. Today there stands the Lourdes Christian
Church in the Gothic style and the Shamian Church (formerly the
British Virgin Guild Church) in the Roman style. It
is hard for Chinese to tell the difference between the two, it
seems funny to them that the British and French live together
on the tiny island, but their “spirits”
fight in the sky of the island. The
two churches are small, but there are still clergies serving
in each. Sister Wang Xuehua is
a nun in Shamian church. From
appearances she looks like a primary school teacher with
short hair and round glasses. Her complexion is fair; she holds a serene
expression and speaks softly. Sister
Wang comes from Wenzhou, Zhejiang, and believed in Catholicism
from the time she was very young. She studied in Guangzhou and became a Shishi Catholic convent. Later she was designated to serve
at Shamian church. The nuns
of this order live in poverty and they do not receive any
salary. What they get is only a cost of living
fee, but the church does allocate them computers and cell
phones. So the nuns are not out of date, for example,
they also use QQ to preach and teach their e-pals. Once they got in touch with the outside
world, there comes some worldly lure, but sister Wang is
quiet inside. She told people that she used to steal. She says that every time when she stole,
she felt scared. Then she would
go to make a confession and gradually she felt God’s inspiration and
love. Finally, she says, the lost sheep straightened
up.
Shamian,
a street where you may get lost
Walking along Shamian Street, the shade of the ancient banyan trees cover the road, breezes blow from the river and touch the churches and the western style buildings that rest here. There are a thousand stories that must reside as memories within these streets. Walking along, it is easy to get lost in time and imagine bygone eras. It seems like one could travel back to the chaos of the war years. Is the one wearing a white scarf, black hat and black coat walking out of the church the godfather of old Shanghai? Who is that guy? Is he in contact with an underground Party member? At that beautiful building over there sits a fair lady who looks over the street sentimentally. The child that sits at the outdoor coffee table ---- which multinational corporation belongs to him?
Because of the classical buildings, Shamian seems far away from the ordinary business of most Chinese people. This guarantees that the stores on the street will have their own style. There is the particularly memorable and impressive German restaurant at the street corner. It has two train carriages on the rail in the garden, a traffic light stand beside the track, and in between the carriages is a European style waiting room. At this restaurant the food is served in carriages, and it is said that the engine was brought from Germany and only the finest German food is served here. The waiting room is large and leaves sufficient space among the tables, but the carriages have narrow booths, which are often filled with young lovers who hold on each other tightly and whisper. If you happen to visit in the springtime, you’ll enjoy spring flowers in the garden here. You will also see men and women inside, smiling as if in the old black and white movies. It is reminiscent of classic images from scenes of the Orient Express.